Objective evaluation of seam pucker / Suzaini Abdul Ghani

This research was done to develop a system that can be used to predict the performance of various types of sewing threads before sewing process in terms of seam pucker for different types of fabric. Seam pucker is one of the major problems in the garment industry. Seam pucker that appeared as a ridge wrinkle along the surface of the sewn material can affect the overall appearance of the end product. In order to develop the system, three variables were chosen. These were sewing thread, fabric and stitch density. Twenty-two sewing threads were selected and tested for evenness, surface friction, strength, twist and dimensional stability. Fabrics were chosen based on their weight, fibre type and structure. Fabric weights were in the range of 80 - 180 gm m-2• The fibres chosen were cotton, polyester, silk, rayon and nylon while weave structures were twill, dobby and jacquard. Total numbers of fabric samples were 11. All fabrics were tested for their physical properties such as weight, thickness, density, strength and stiffness. The stitch density chosen was 4 or 6 stitches cm·1. The fabrics were sewn with selected sewing threads and stitch densities. Total numbers of sewn samples were 484. All samples were washed and dried according to the standard before evaluated using the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AA TCC) Test Method 88B-1996: Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering.
The results from the evaluation of seam pucker; sewing thread and fabric properties were successfully combined to produce a multiple regression equation referred as the "Seam Engineering Index". It was found that strength, surface friction and thread twist properties of the sewing thread combined with the weft elongation at peak, weft density and fabric stiffness were selected as important parameters in predicting the occurrence of seam pucker for various type of fabrics. The equation of Seam Engineering Index can be used to predict the performance of the sewing thread in terms of seam pucker for shirting materials.