Decoding royal elegance: a systematic literature review of baju Puteri Perak styling through time and culture

Ibrahim, Nor Idayu and Md. Nor, Zainudin and Mustapha, Azwady (2025) Decoding royal elegance: a systematic literature review of baju Puteri Perak styling through time and culture. In: Proceedings of the 16th Regional Symposium of the Malay Archipelago Simpora xvi: 2025, 31 Aug - 4 Sep 2025, Universiti Teknologi MARA, Perak.
Abstract

The Baju Puteri Perak, a traditional royal costume of the Perak Sultanate, represents more than mere attire; it embodies a constructed cultural identity that parallels the built heritage of Malay civilisation. This study systematically reviews the evolution of Baju Puteri Perak styling from 1950 to 2000 through the lens of cultural resilience and local wisdom. Using a systematic literature review (SLR) approach grounded in the PRISMA protocol, this paper synthesises studies from archival records, ethnographic sources, and scholarly works to trace stylistic changes, material transitions, and symbolic representations embedded within the costume’s form. Findings reveal that the Baju Puteri Perak reflects layers of resilience religious modesty, aesthetic sophistication, and adaptive continuity mirroring the resilience observed in Malay built environments such as royal palaces and sacred spaces. The analysis highlights how design principles in the costume, including fabric selection, silhouette construction, and ornamental motifs, correspond to architectural philosophies rooted in balance, hierarchy, and spirituality. By framing traditional attire as a form of “textile architecture,” the study positions Malay royal costume within the discourse of built environment studies, emphasising its role in sustaining cultural identity through time. Ultimately, this review contributes to a broader understanding of how fashion, like architecture, acts as a vessel of local wisdom and a living archive of religious and traditional values in the Malay world.

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